1. BOOK NEWS
The book
Five years in the making, but now in race-against-publication-date mode, here is the cover of my upcoming book, The Chicago Way: An Oral History of Chicago Dining. You can read more about it at its page at Agate’s website here.
I’m working this week on the index, which is work, but also satisfying as a way of surveying all that went into the final text. And for the weird combinations you find—surely, it’s the only book in which both Zsa Zsa Gabor and Congressman Dan Rostenkowski appear.
The cover, as many will recognize, shows the sign outside The Berghoff—a famous restaurant which does not appear in the book (an oral history talks to those who were alive at least in the early 2020s, and the Berghoff—founded 1898—is long before the era covered by the book). But I liked the image as soon as I saw it, because it felt like big city excitement and Chicago history to me. And that’s what the book is about—the restaurants that made dining out in Chicago exciting, from The Bakery in the 1960s to Alinea and Moto in the 2010s and beyond.
Its release date is February 3. I’ll be setting up events starting around that time, where you can get your copy(s) signed, so watch for more info on that.
2. SPEAKING OF BOOKS
Mike Sula at the Reader has a roundup of upcoming Chicago food books, including two by people who are featured in my book—Paula Haney of Hoosier Mama, whose new book is The Hoosier Mama Book of Breakfast Bakes, from Agate Midway, which just happens to be the publisher of my book:
Just like her pies, the recipes here abide by the seasons, but unlike them, most are achievable in under an hour.
And Kevin Boehm of Boka Group, who tells his personal story in The Bottomless Cup: A Memoir of Restaurants, Secrets and Forgiveness:
It’s all white-knuckled personal turbulence submerged under the meteoric growth of a restaurant empire.
3. MORIOLE
Understanding Hospitality visits Oriole to see what the Michelin two-star restaurant is like now:
Oriole, then and now, does not look to explore the furthest, boundary-breaking extremes of texture and flavor. It does not look to push plating or environmental effects into the realm of spectacle. Instead, the restaurant occupies a comfortable place somewhere between the avant-garde and the timeless. The former reveals itself via punky accents, a corresponding rejection of pretense, and a globe-trotting gamut of techniques; the latter is anchored by the polish of the staff, the classicism of the wine, and the way in which luxury ingredients are channeled—simply—toward pleasure.
4. DEM BONES
Michael Nagrant visits Cerdito Muerto in PIlsen, where they found bones digging around the century and a half old building. But he’s more interested in meat:
…the food from chef Becky Carson while modern has deep roots in traditional Mexican foodways. The quesadilla overflowing with meaty mushrooms and gooey queso is served with a hi-sheen nutty salsa macha and wrapped in a freshly griddled housemade tortilla.
The tacos are swaddled in fresh blue corn from El Popocatepetl around the corner.
The al pastor, usually mild and served in carbonized flecks, is fiery and shreddy more like a braised chili pork.
The calabacita taco is not blobby, but instead firm fleshed, sweet, foiled brightly by pickled tomato.
5. FIVE-O KINE GRINDZ
Titus Ruscitti talks about five new places in the north suburbs, including one I’ve been to, Da Local Boy in Highwood:
Let’s go get some Mochiko Chicken on Da North Shore – except we’re not going to Oahu, we’re headed to Highwood where Da Local Boy was opened by a couple that moved there from Maui. There’s a handful of Hawaiian restaurants in Chicago but I can’t recall having Hawaiian fried chicken at any so I went with that on my initial visit and it hit the spot in a way Hawaiian food always does. I’m not a native but I’ve always found Hawaiian food to be extremely comforting. Mochiko Chicken is an iconic Hawaiian-style dish made with chunks of fried chicken. It’s known for its sweet, savory, and chewy texture. The dish’s signature characteristics come from its key ingredient: mochiko, a Japanese sweet rice flour. A plate comes with a scoop of steaming white rice and mac salad.
6. MATILDA GORILDA
The Infatuation goes to Matilda, a new Mexican-Peruvian spot in River North:
Like most restaurants where friends go for a good time, Matilda’s menu lands firmly in “share plates” territory. And despite the cuisine crossover, the Mexican-Peruvian food isn’t so much fusion as it is a smattering of tacos and guacamole alongside ceviches with choclo and leche de tigre.
7. TWO OUT OF 50
The World’s 50 Best has a new list and event—a 50 Best for America. They just announced them in Vegas and two of them are from Chicago—Smyth and Kasama. C0urtney Kueppers talks about them at WBEZ; see the whole list here.
8. TAMALE SOLIDARITY
Laura Murillo, a tamale vendor in Back of the Yards was arrested by ICE. Here’s how the neighborhood is responding, says Block Club:
[Berto]Aguayo, a native of Back of the Yards, and other organizers bought out Friday’s tamales stock and “took over her shift” to raise funds for Murillo’s family. Aguayo said he wants to inspire those who can – U.S. citizens, young people, organizers and attorneys – to support their neighbors as federal agents target undocumented people with immigration operations Midway Blitz and At Large.
9. CAROLINA DOG ON MY MIND
Carolina Bird Dogs are sort of dressed like hot dogs (shades of Chicago’s mother in law) but the protein in the middle is a chicken tender, says Sandwich Tribunal:
…back in the 1990s, a simple little sandwich called the Carolina Bird Dog was invented. South Carolina lore has it that the sandwich was first served by a diner called Daddy Rabbitt’s not too far from downtown Anderson–local lore in Anderson will add that it sat where the Schlotzsky’s is now–and it’s been described as “chicken tenders dressed up like a (hot) dog,” which originally gave me the impression that it was a chicken tender, in a hot dog bun, dressed Carolina-style, with yellow mustard, diced onion, beanless chili, and coleslaw.
That’s not it. But it’s not bad, either.
10. LISTEN UP
The Dining Table talks about Kilwin’s, the ice cream-and-fudge chain you probably know from tourist towns, but which is starting to pop up in Chicago.
Joiners talks to Josh Kulp of Honey Butter Fried Chicken.
Supper With Sylvia talks non-alcoholic spirits with the folks at In Good Spirits.
The Chef’s Cut talks about a side of cooking you don’t hear much about—private chef work (which cohost Adrienne Cheatham has done).
A podcast called Chicago Contrarian talks about how restaurants are suffering under current Chicago policy.
Dish from Chicago Magazine talks about Wisconsin Old-Fashioneds. Having a son in Wisconsin these days, I’ve had more of them in the last year or two than in my entire life up to that point. They also talk about John Kessler’s recent review of the Alston.
WHAT MIKE ATE
Several months ago a friend wanted to check out Joe Flamm’s new Roman restaurant, Il Carciofo, and I tagged along—despite the fact that I knew Rose Mary had taken some months to really come into its own. It was about 18 months old by the time I got there, and it was pretty great by then (and ever since—I went back recently when one of my wife’s oldest friends and her husband came to town and I happily spotted an available slot on Open Table).
So I went to Il Carciofo and it was all right—the deep-fried artichokes and a mortadella sandwich from the pizza oven were highlights, but a lot of other things felt like they didn’t live up to their menu descriptions, needed time to come into focus. So give it a few months. A friend came to town last week and that’s where he wanted to go—partly because as a previous devotee of Johns Food and Wine, a server he had liked there had moved over here in the meantime.
I was the only one in our party of four who had been here, so I steered us to things I had liked and awsy from a couple of things. But honestly, we’d have been fine with ordering semi-blindly—this time, there was not a dud in the night. Everything seemed sharpened up, Italian food with unusual depth. The sandwich—crusty bread with a kind of pistachio pesto on it—was maybe the highlight, at least my friends talked about coming back for it at lunch (unfortunately, it’s not open then). But suppli (aka arancini) stuffed with pesto and fior di latte, a plate of coppa and figs drizzled with balsamic all outperformed their descriptions this time, and the thing I’ve been thinking about ever since was veal saltimbocca, thanks to the sauce it was in, which had surprising depth of meaty flavor. Anyway, if you haven’t been, go—I can’t wait to go back.
Anatolia is a new Turkish restaurant on Clark just south of Fullerton. The young owner reached out to Ina Pinkney to try to get some attention for his business and so she invited some people for Turkish breakfast, including myself. (Do not say the I-word, influencer.) It was fun watching the table fill up with little plates ranging from homemade jams to olives, various kinds of cheeses, fruit, and baskets of house-baked breads and Turkish bagels, simit. The lineup concluded with a couple of egg dishes—one with slices of sausage, one with tomatoes and peppers. (My wife posted pictures here.)
I’ve had Turkish breakfast a few times, and I enjoy the heartiness yet lightness of it compared to American breakfast. But one of the things I always like about it—plain yogurt to mix with the frfuit or jams—was surprisingly absent. For that reason, I felt like the balance of this spread fit for a sultan was a little off, stressing the housemade breads. So, a lot of carbs, less of the fresh stuff I associate with Turkish breakfast. Still, a very pleasant meal in a nice room; I would go back to see what they do at dinner.
Note: I’m off to my film festival in Italy, so Buzz List will be off for two weeks, and will return on October 19th. One thing to note: the WTTW show about Chicago food (which I was interviewed for—we shall see!) will air before I have a chance to remind you: Iconic Foods, Friday, October 17 at 8 pm.