1. BOOK COMES OUT TUESDAY!
A little under six years ago, I signed the contract to write an oral history of Chicago dining… and here we are! In the meantime, 200+ interviews, countless hours of stitching it into a narrative… oh, and a little thing called COVID which seemed like it might be the end of the restaurant scene I was there to write about. Well, it wasn’t, exactly, though it did real harm. But I plugged away for years, and the day is finally here. (Already here for many people who pre-ordered it, but officially in stores as of Tuesday.)
As the day approaches I’ve started doing a lot of publicity for it. Here’s what’s out so far:
• I was on Matt in the Morning at NBC (I had to arrive at the NBC building in Streeterville shortly before 6 am!). Unfortunately, they have not posted it online.
• I was on Good Day Chicago on Fox 32, around 9 am this time. This one, three minutes long, you can watch here.
• But if you click through for one thing, make it the most excellent piece by Friend of Fooditor Lisa Shames in the Sun-Times:
Close to five years in the making, the book (which is being published Feb. 2 by Evanston’s Agate Publishing) weighs almost 2 pounds. Its 587 pages cover some 60 years of Chicago’s restaurant scene starting in the 1960s with close to 200 interviews from those who lived it, including owners, chefs, line cooks, servers, busboys, regular diners, purveyors, sommeliers, media and real estate developers. Some names you’ll undoubtedly recognize — think Charlie Trotter, Grant Achatz, Rick Bayless, Stephanie Izard, Phil Vettel — while many others you won’t.
For Gebert, each contributor had an important tale to tell in the shaping of Chicago’s dining scene — and, by association, the city itself — into what it is today.
Food coverage at the Sun-Times is so good—even when it’s not about me!—between the presence of strong writers (and Friends of Fooditor) like Lisa and Maggie Hennessy, and being in touch with the things that are most interesting on Chicago’s food scene (like the modern food history and evolution my book is about). Big thanks to Lisa and to the Sun-Times for this terrific and thorough piece.
Watch this space for more next week.
2. AFTER THE BANCHETS
Last week, I quickly posted the winners of the Banchet awards when I got home from the ceremony around midnight. Not a time for a lot of careful reflection, so let’s have a little more of that now.
Every year the Banchet awards express admiration for our food community on every level—from upscale restaurants to the heritage and neighborhood restaurants. There’s always some deeply moving moments where someone talks about being amazed to be honored at the same awards as the big money joints. One example: choking back tears, Justin Lerias of Del Sur Bakery called out his grandmother watching from the Philippines, and paid tribute to his mom who “set aside her own ambitions to move to this country, and gave us all a chance in life.” But similar things were said by the folks from Mahari, Sanders BBQ Supply, and Nine Garden, not to mention the Restaurant of the Year winners from Indienne. Only one speech directly referenced the deep political divide in the present moment, but nearly every speech was, one way or another, about the fact that food is what brings us together, and lets us share our cultures—which by definition often means immigrant cultures in America, and it’s on all of us to protect them.
More coverage from the morning after:
At the Trib, Zareen Syed says much of the same about immigrant issues, though by following up the next morning to get more quotes about ICE than there actually were in the show, the Tribune makes the night sound much more partisan-politicized than it actually was—and perhaps more what the reporter evidently wishes it had been, rather than what it was.
Daniel Hautzinger’s introduction to the complete list of winners at WTTW seemed more like the show I actually saw (and, for the record, was part of, writing and reading the In Memoriam section):
But the Banchets don’t just celebrate fine dining. The Wiener Circle’s infamous Poochie presented Best Hospitality (“I better be nominated next year,” she said), while Rahim Muhammad of the African diaspora spot Mahari, which won Best Neighborhood Restaurant, thanked the awards for “recognizing people who are just working hard.”
And check out this touching post by Friend of Fooditor Rebecca Fyffe, about the post-award celebration at Heritage winner Nine Garden. The Banchets are good for bringing all the many restaurant communities in Chicago together as one big community, and that comes through in these pictures. (By the way, last week I said that I thought Nine Garden was the first winner in Chinatown. Not so; the former A Place by Damao, now Da Mao Jia, won several years ago.)
3. DER KOMMISSAR IS COMING, WHOA-HO
Where did this idea that there was going to be a “general strike” on Friday come from? First, the idea of a general strike is so retro—what are we, Warren Beatty in Reds? And who gets to cosplay as the Comintern and actually be taken seriously announcing such a thing?
The idea was, I guess, to put pressure on the big retailers, the Targets and Wal-Marts, who supposedly have cooperated with ICE in rounding up immigrant employees. But the result was to pressure small local businesses—the very people who put up signs telling ICE to stay out—to close for a day to… what? Lose revenue, cost their employees income, for what purpose? To somehow bring down a government agency because you can’t order a plate of fried walleye on one day? That’s got a real Underpants Gnome logic to it. And more than that, it brings back the low point of the lockdown era, when people would claim the power to order small businesses to do more for Black Lives Matter—and more was never enough. I think of this every time I drive past where Landbirds used to be—a promising Asian-owned small business that closed during COVID after being lambasted on social media for not doing… enough, whatever enough would have ever been.
A lot of Chicago food businesses were in no position to take a day off because some commissar ordered it. Here were some of the Instagram responses from very sincere businesses explaining why they were not closing on Friday. Daisies/The Radicle:
We will remain open today, but that choice does not reflect indifference. We believe there are more meaningful ways to support our communities than shutting our doors, especially when small businesses are already stretched thin…. In doing a small part without punishing the people that work with us, we will be donating our profits from today to organizations that help defend immigrant and citizens constitutional rights.
Flour Power:
We wish we could participate. But without better notice, a few days before rent is due, we will have to sit this one out. I know we’re not alone in wishing we could close in solidarity, but our cooler is already full and we’ve been slow the last couple weeks—cold outside.
Rodolfo Cuadros (Amaru/Bloom Plant Based Kitchen):
We stand in solidarity with our immigrant community.
Brown. And always proud.
This moment is deeply personal—for our families, our children, and our team. While we remain open today to support our staff and livelihoods, our values are clear.
We will continue to show up, speak out, and suppoort our communities in meaningful ways.
Won Kim of Kimski:
Stop going after local BIPOC owned restaurants, food carts, and mom and pop spots that are just trying to survive.
Some of these businesses can’t afford to shut down for a day without risking payroll, rent, or their doors closing for good.
I can’t believe I even have to say this shit.
This labor boycott that’s happening tomorrow is aimed at big corporations… If you actually care about community, then support the small spots keeping our neighborhoods alive and fed.
Leave mom and pops the hell alone.
4. LORDS OF WAR
A year or more ago, stories were going around (on Reddit and such) that Trevor Fleming, one of the three chefs behind then-hot hot Warlord, was up to bad things (what, exactly, not always specified). A story was about to break somewhere that would expose him. Just wait—next week at the latest! Well, the thing is, I had talked to several people in the food news community, and they all said the same thing—they couldn’t get anyone on the record. So, no story.
Well, that was then and stories broke last week. The Sun-Times:
The owner of the popular Avondale restaurant Warlord was in court Monday, where he was served with an order of protection — his second in about a year involving a female co-worker — after being accused of sharing sexual images of a former girlfriend and colleague without her consent.
Trevor B. Fleming, 41, was charged with nonconsensual dissemination of a sexual image, a felony, records show. He was arrested Jan. 17.
…Fleming is accused of sharing private sexual images without consent in September 2023. The images “clearly show” the woman’s face and private areas during a sexual act, records show.
Records also showed the accuser is “fearful of the respondent, of possible further abuse,” and there is a past history of verbal and emotional abuse.
They met on the app Tinder in 2019 and began dating. She also began working for Fleming, helping with design work on the restaurant.
They had an on-and-off “toxic” relationship, which was sexually, emotionally and mentally “abusive,” she told the Sun-Times.
Warlord’s co-owners, Emily Kraszyk and John Lupton, put up a statement on Instagram, distancing themselves from Fleming as the group prepares to open a second restaurant, Lords, next door:
We find the allegations against our co-owner to be reprehensible; that type of behavior and any individuals who perpetrate it have no place at Warlord. Warlord was built on the foundations of family and friendship—a destination for our community.
The trust of that community has been broken, and we will do everything in our power to earn it back as we coordinate with legal counsel on an appropriate path forward. Our top priority is to provide a safe space for our team and foster an inclusive experience for our valued neighbors and guests.
That certainly sounds like lawyers telling them what they can and can’t say as, presumably, they negotiate a partner’s exit from the business.
5. BURGALIT
I’ve never had the burger at Cafe Ya-Ya, I like other, somewhat more grownup comfort foods, but Louisa Chu at the Trib devotes a big chunk of her review to the burger at Galit’s little sister:
A smoky Big Sis lamb burger, with a za’atar-spiced aioli and an enigmatic amba honey mustard, has deservedly become a bestselling signature item. It refers to big sister restaurant Galit, which was named for Engel’s older daughter, Margalit. The chef created a similar burger there for COVID era takeout. He continues to use only lamb from Trent Sparrow at Catalpa Grove Farm near Dwight, Illinois.
…Middle Eastern-style toppings of baby Persian cucumber, pickles, red onion and shredded lettuce finish the lovely lamb burger, tucked in a potato bun. At happy hour, it’s a deal at $16, and comes with a nice side of shoestring fries. The bun and fries are the few items not made in-house.
6. CREEPY LUNCH
Grimod went back to Creepies yet again, to eat their new lunch:
With the debut of lunch service, Creepies now has a chance to package its work for a more casual audience, and I find that facing this sort of restriction (the time constraints and tastes that drive midday dining) often forms a boon for kitchens in possession of such a strong voice. Indeed, it forces them to channel their zanier ideas into established, legible forms and, as a result, leverages familiarity to deliver textures and flavors that surpass any expectation of what a given dish (at this less gastronomically privileged time) is capable of.
7. NADU NADU
Michael Nagrant on Nadu:
In a world of Americanized Indian options soaked with cloying butter chicken, Nadu is a neon pink water tower with a VW Microbus driving around the top in circles.
Consider the dining room art by Abhay Segal that juxtaposes the culture of India and Chicago. A tiger hangs from lush jade curtains, while some dude who looks like Derek Rose chills out while some other guys throw down in a basketball game outside the Chicago Theatre. There is a religious offering of a Nike Air Force 1 hi-top while an anxious Indian couple gazes on, wondering if they will be received in this town. A Pan Am stewardess beckons, while a Dali-esque clock melts above it all.
It’s joyous raucous madness, as delicious as Sujan Sarkar and Sanchit Sahu’s food and drink which spans all kinds of regions and styles in breadth, but is pointed and focused in depth of execution.
8. CORNER OF SZECHUAN AND SUPERCUTS
I have not seen Szechuan Corner, but as soon as Dennis Lee said it was on Ashland next to a Supercuts, I knew where it was because I’ve taken my kids to that Supercuts:
Many of the other dishes we ordered were on the Chef’s Special section of the menu, because real ones know that’s usually where all the best stuff is.
That includes these Szechuan string beans, which are blistered in a wok, and seasoned with garlic, green onion, and shrimp powder. Despite the Szechuan connotation, they contain zero spice. I particularly liked their texture, since the high heat cooking softened the beans up quite a bit. And that shrimp flavor is much more subtle than you’d think; you only notice it when your palate is actively looking for it.
9. THE LOOP’S LAST DOG STAND
Well, maybe not exactly, but it’s true that classic Chicago hot dog stands are growing rarer. Nick Kindelsperger on Chicago’s Dog House in the Washington Hall food hall:
Here you’ll find a flawless Chicago-style hot dog, complete with a natural-casing hot dog from Vienna Beef and all seven toppings. Its only quirk is that it chars the hot dog, much like The Wiener’s Circle and Fatso’s Last Stand. Fortunately, it doesn’t incinerate the sausage, instead leaving the dog with a few tell-tale grill marks, while remaining plump and beefy.
But the hot dog is just the beginning of the menu. The shop has a range of other sausage options, like a fine Maxwell Street Polish, topped with sauteed onions, mustard, and sport peppers. You’ll even find some more unexpected sausage choices, including a smoked alligator sausage topped with an Asian chili sauce and a rattlesnake and rabbit sausage with barbecue sauce.
10. SOME PLACES COULD BE FINER
At Chicago mag, Edward McClelland calls attention to some of the last old school diners in town:
The heyday of the diner is long past, when greasy spoons were open 24 hours a day to serve hungry workers who had just gotten off third shift, or who were just about to go on first. But there are still plenty of diners left on street corners and in storefronts, with sugar shakers in every booth, patched-up naugahyde, hand-lettered menus on chalkboards, and proprietors working the grill.
I am a great lover of diners (RIP Belmont Snack Shop, a major bonding location for Son #2 and me), but I have to say I have had disappointing experiences at many of the ones McClelland visits—brick-hard biscuits and gravy here, hash browns like eating a plate of pine needles there. I’m not sure what’s happened, but my best diner experiences of late have been on road trips, not at home.
11. THIS F’N GUY
The F standing for, of course, Food. Steve Dolinsky was only the Food Guy at NBC 5 for a relatively short time (compared to his long run as the Hungry Hound at ABC7), so this is a surprise, but at the same time, kind of a natural choice—there’s going to be a new Food Guy, and it’s Kevin Pang. Pang is fast out of the box with two initial reports on social media—one on some deals at hot new places for Restaurant Week, and one about a bakery in LaGrange which looks pretty darn good.
12. LISTEN UP
Joiners talks to Laurent Schroeder-Bec, of Big Star.
Supper With Sylvia talks to Jonathon Sawyer of Kindling, about struggling with addiction.
On The Chef’s Cut, they talk about “the internet’s case against opening a restaurant.”
Dish With David (look for Lumpen Radio at your podcast app, or go here) talks to the folks behind Sublime Hospitality.
WHAT MIKE ATE
I haven’t been to much this last week, between my media appearances and the Arctic cold, but there’s always time for pizza. I’ve tried two different new pizzas in the last couple of weeks but never got around to writing about them. Let’s fix that.
First up, and the better of the two, was A Pizza Pie, the pizza place owned by, and next to, Ragadan, the falafel and onion burger place that won a Banchet award last year for counter service. Michael Nagrant wrote about it a few weeks back and I kept it in mind for when I was in need of pizza. I’m not sure what to call the style—it’s kind of like Neapolitan, kind of like New York, with a puffy crust and nice pepperoni cups. Anyway, I liked it a lot, and have ordered it twice within the last month.
A couple of nights ago I had put off ordering too long, and so I looked on GrubHub for the fastest pizza I could find. (Normally in such a case I’d walk to Bartoli’s near me, but like I said, Arctic!) Lusha Pizza is some new place around Diversey and Lincoln. It was more clearly New York style, and not a bad thin crust pie, though I thought the cheese was not quite as high quality as A Pizza Pie’s, and I got a Caesar salad that was fine but, weirdly, seemed like it was half croutons. Still, the location is right, we’ll probably have it again.
One more thing to mention—though it was not a meal I ordered out exactly. The first chef in my book is Louis Szathmary of The Bakery, who sort of acted the part of a European chef but was also a food scientist who helped develop recipes for big brands—to me, that makes him a quintessential 1960s Chicago chef, half Banchet, half Ray Kroc. Anyway, at least one thing he created for a major brand is still on store shelves—Stouffer’s Spinach Souffle. I’ve always been curious about it, and finally decided to pick one up at Jewel and fire it up. 45 minutes later, I had a plastic tray of leafy green stuff, looking like mulch as much as dinner. I dug into it a bit apprehensively—but Gott demn, it was good! Kind of eggy, as you’d expect from something called a souffle, but with the spinach it was substantial as food. So now I’ve crossed off another chef in my book whose food I’ve tried, even if he’s been dead for thirty years.