Rick Bayless' first new full-service restaurant since Topolobampo in 1989 is a two-headed complex on Randolph Street. The more upscale Leña Brava is focused on the seafood of Baja and cooks everything, especially whole fish, over wood-fired grills. While the more casual Cruz Blanca serves the parts for making your own tacos at table—which are meant to be enjoyed with the housemade beers, some flavored with Mexican ingredients, by brewer Jacob Sembrano.